We woke up with no water in the apartment. We were late paying the rent. I walked around for hours with no shoes moping. When I am in a funk, it takes only a couple hours to perk up. But being very hungover, tired, hormonal & generally in a foul mood, I had been heard to say:
“I hate this place. It sucks. I hate the people here. None of them are real; they are all plastic. The weather fucking sucks. I don't want to sit on the beach surrounded by thousands of people in the gusting wind, but there's nothing else to do. There's no surf & it's too windy to swim. I don't want to struggle to search for vegetarian food. The music sucks. I don't want to go clubbing with the same music every night. I just want to chill out & watch a half decent live band. My camera's still broken & I have no shoes. By the end of the day I'm going to become the meanest person ever. I don't want to talk shit anymore & I'm going to tell the next person I meet to fuck off.”
Then came the inevitable: “I miss Sayulita.”
I am fascinated by the idea of streets & people without names – like in my hometown on the west coast. In Playa del Carmen this doesn't matter; Everyone is disposable. All it took was going to gypsy night & dancing barefoot in the sand to let the normal people know we were one of them. Balkan Beat Box DJ. Wicked.
Luiz tells me about the blue dragon he was gifted in a dream. In mine, I was in love with a Macaw I had met the day before. This bird was phenomenal! Havana. She would dance to the music & preen herself for me. Marvelous spectrum of colours. I'd jerk away when she'd lean forward to bite me. What a tease! I am told she is playing. And also that she strips the marrow from chicken bones & eats it. She loves it. I am in complete awe.
I work hard to find something substantial. Sometimes that means leaving.
“Do they have wifi?”
The Mayan ruins in Tulum are fantastic. Dilapidated city from another lifetime. Another world. Connected with the earth, the sea, the wind, death & the seasons. They have connections, through cenotes, underground caverns, to the underworld. Supposedly, on the equinox, when night & day are balanced, the shadows show a snake descending the steps of Chichen Itza towards the cenotes.
The cenotes are unreal. Complete darkness. Stalagmites & stalactites. Pipes covering the ceiling reaching down like the world's biggest organ. Labyrinths within an underground river system. Deep. Dark. Beams of light & shadows on the ancient coral on the cavern walls. Watch your head! ...and your feet. Sculling has prepared me for this for years. The whole time is a feeling of being slightly lost. Alien landscape. Unreal.
The weather is always really nice, hot & sunny in the morning, immediately after sunrise. (Before we're awake.) Then the wind picks up, the clouds roll in & it spits for a couple minutes in the afternoon. Despite not having shoes all day, I sat on the beach clutching my book to read, laughed & ran into the ocean. Rainclouds & Red flag waves. Alone time on the road & little things are what get me. Both my shoes & camera are fixed. Things seem to be looking up! :) High fives!
Watching Seinfeld in Spanish is great for picking up vocabulary. El contesto. No sopa para ti!