Saturday, December 4, 2010

The day the Swell came in


Pretty tired...

Many things have happened.

Monday Tuesday the waves were shit.  Nothing happening.  So choppy, nothing to catch.  Tuesday night we heard rumours of the Southern Swell.  Some swell that was coming in from Hawaii.  Sometimes it hits us sometimes it doesn't...  We all planned to get up early Wednesday.

I was already at the beach when the boys showed up at 8:30.  Astonished.  I had never seen such big waves - but then I've hardly seen waves at all to be frank.  These were only about 3.5-4ft, but they looked like monsters & felt even bigger when you were out there.  After an hour of watching, Brett showed up "There're waves...I don't see what the problem is." He's the best of the 3 of us for sure.  I got rocked hard a couple times & called it quits for the rest of the day.  All the pros were out & all the instructors we know too.  4ft is not very big by any stretch, but when you're learning it's a mountain.

It is something else to watch the wave break when you're sitting on top of it.

Yesterday noonhour was the best though.  I fixed my approach & I've been catching waves left & right.  The waves were long & lazy - nice & easy.  It would be me, Brett, Darryl & Andy out there; sometimes on the same wave.  We'd laugh if we almost crashed into each other, cause we are finally catching them.  Fuck yeah.  Yesterday was my best day.

Then Danielle came back into town....

Not gonna lie.  I'm super tired, my bed is 3ft from here & it's 5am.  You'd be mad at me, but it's freezing out....at +16.  Roosters are crowing.  Spent most of today recovering from last night, Danielle's first night back, but the waves were shit anyway.  Tonight I took it easy & made a 9am surf date with her.  We'll see how much better I really am.  She's had perpetual darkness in Alaska since she left!  Hahaha.

Both her & Tamara have been saying something about how special I am, but I don't take compliments too well, so I don't really remember.  Danielle wants me to stay so she can come visit us again.  Tamara wants me to stay & be her live-in nanny.  They want me to adopt the dog & take Zumba & boxing as more incentive & someone told me their in love with me at Dragon Rojo tonight.  No wonder Danielle came back - the drama!

Cannon blasts outside for the first night of Fiesta de la Guadelupe.
More to come.
Sleep first.zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

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