Wednesday, November 10, 2010

"Headed down south t the land of the pines...."

My surf:

I am in the surf.  I am picking it up.  Today was the best day in the water so far.  I got up a couple times, & caught just about every wave I went for.  Creating these surf-only relationships with people on the water.  No names, just about waves, boards, practice, ability & the time.  I get tangled in the leach alot.  I am goofy foot - right foot forward.  The waves here can get fair sized, & are very constant.  The best time for beginners is afternoon ish. 1-4 = siesta time; when the tide is out.  Though we don´t have the huge breaks like Puerto Escondido, most of the top surfers in the country come from here.  There are two breaks - one right & one left.  The left is a sand bar & all the lessons & beginners hang around there.  It breaks right up to the beach.  It is very easy to fall into 2 feet of water without realizing how close to shore you are.  The right is behind the rocky shore, and for the more avanced dudes.  Some guys paddleboard while standing & make it look incredibly easy.  I wear some cheap white shorts & a rash guard - a long sleeved shirt.  The rash guard must do wonders, cause I´m got rashes on my thighs, knees & left elbow.  I couldn´t imagine bare stomach too.  Not to mention it won´t go away cause I just keep surfing on it...  I rub pure aloe on it.  They are toughening up.  The guy at the surf shop says I am becoming a surfer. Oh and I bought my first bikini the other day.  Yes, you can tell this body gets no sun.  Quite pasty.  My routine is to catch a few waves for usually 2 hours in the afternoon, wash off & wash my hair, then hang in the sun to dry off since I don´t own a towel.  Haha!  Then it´s about time for sunset, which I watch pretty much everyday.  It´s the best indicator of time & I´ve become super romantic....

My home:

So I didn´t plan to be camping!  You knew that, right?  It´s so much cheaper at the campground, when Sasha went to Vallarta I got him to drive me to Walmart & picked one up.  I am cautious on the verge of paranoia.  I make sure no one sees me go in or out of the campground, since I am the only one staying in it.  My stuff is so tucked away & completely invisible to the beach.  When I walk in with my friends, I try to get them to find where I´m set up & it´s pretty cool when they can´t.  There are two in town & I am the one that´s fenced in.  The other is open to the beach, but I don´t want any thoroughfare since I won´t be around alot to safeguard my stuff.  I have some friends at the other campground, but this is an okay deal so far.  I tie it up from the inside when I´m sleeping.  My biggest fear would be if a bunch of people were to carry me off in it at night, but I don´t see that happening.  When I am in there I am dead to the world.  No one knows I am there.  Well, the people that count do.  The first night was fitful.  I thought it was storming all night, but it was the crash of the waves.  Constant.  Dogs howling too.  I am sheltered by a palapa, so I would never know if it rained.  I need to get something to sleep on though.  I am straight grounding it.  It´s okay for right now.  I´ve got a knot in my back right now from that & craning to look behind at the waves.  By the weekend I will be staying somewhere else in town.  There is apparently some sort of skateboarding competition maybe?  And it will be busy with weekenders.  Ky & I are working on finding a cheap place to rent.  He´s got a couple on the line with possibly 120$ or 150$ a month rent, which is less than both our campgrounds & would be amazing!!  It doesn´t get much basic than camping, so we are not picky.

Soon I will introduce my fair town - Sayulita.  And my new pack: Ky, Karen, Tamara, Levi, Carlos....

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