It is an interesting feeling waking up at Home in Mexico. Very cool. This is the first time I haven't experienced the "where am I" feeling when I wake up. No disorientation. And I wake up at home every morning, without fail.
A bit of devastation when I found out the spine of my surfboard was broken. I got two good runs out of it & I could tell something was off. Sunday I cheerily walked around telling people I was on my way to bust skulls, but Ramone at the surf shop gave me another one without me having to ask. Every day I learn a little bit more. Whether it's the timing, or which ones are good to ride, or where to be careful of the break cause it'll toss you like nothing & you won't be able to get your feet on the ground. These aren't even the worst ones. It's great learning the waves. Getting the feel for when it's time to dive into them & see how far you can get. Laughing at your friends tumbling.
I love the feeling of laying in bed & still feeling the waves.
Tamara & I have tons of fun knocking people down a few pegs. We take the piss out of everyone. We're like teenagers together, and she doesn't know what to do when I leave. We make games at the bar to liven up the place, or get the barkeep Tony to let me play dJ at Dragon Rojo. Somedays we stay in & watch How I Met Your Mother, or sit around drinking wine. Contemplating. She has a Masters in Psychology, so we have great discussions. The rumour around town is that we're lesbians, cause we're pretty inseparable. The other day was Revolution Day, so I spent the majority of the day with a moustache & beard on. Quite attractive, even in the waves! We act silly & I have acquired an adoptive Aussie name, since I am an Ozophile.
On the other hand of girl-time, I am always one of the boys. I spent Sunday with Darryl (London), Bret (NZ) & Vince (BC) at the sports bar. CFL playoffs, Oilers & Canucks hockey, poker & pool tournys -> You'll be happy to know Darryl & I kicked ass. At least, once we figured out how to compensate for the crooked cue. We all surf together, except I haven't seen Vince since we came close to fist fighting that night. And yes, it was my fault. Later when Darryl introduced Tamara & I he said "Tamara's great & Joss's fuckin awesome"! (See: post about Tamara's claim to be the most awesome.)
Sidenote: Something missing in every bar in Canada is dogs.
Every night is a little bit different with a little bit different characters. Today had afternoon fireworks for some sort of fiesta in the arena. It is Wednesday, right? There is also a 15th birthday party across the street with a huge live band that is currently going off. The equivalent of a bahtmitvah. We're going to the Plaza in town to meet some friends & see what happens from there.
You might be able to tell where my priorities lie. I spend all day watching the water, waiting for the perfect chance. I sometimes lose focus by dancing, singing, laying down, or trying to do pushups on the board & miss the waves. It's easy to get distracted. Every day I want to do a morning session, but sleep in without fail.
There is something to be said for constantly failing at something. I am picking it up piece by piece.